Cy’s Blog

Hiking and Climbing Adventures

Welcome to Hiking & Mountaineering Blog! Sharing my personal hiking & climbing experiences, photos, other ‘s excursions, upcoming hiking events mainly in So Cal, other blogs mainly in the news plus links to information of interest to all hikers, mountaineers & mountain lovers. Updates to Hiking & Mountaineering are expected almost daily, so please check back often.

Predigtstuhl -Schule-Diem/Haslacher -Behringer - Tirol - Austria (Wilder Kaiser) -Trip report w/ pics
Latok 1 climbed from the North, but  North Ridge remains incomplete (unclimbed)- Climbing.com
Mouse's Tooth, Coast Range, British Colombia CA --  Steph Abegg  --  Pictures and trip report (soon)


http://becauseflatsucks.blogspot.com/2018/08/austria-tirol-wilde-kaiser-predigtstuhl.html -- Predigtstuhl- Schule - Diem/ Haslacher - Behringer - Tirol - Austria (Wilder Kaiser)



https://www.climbing.com/news/latok-i-climbed-from-the-north-but-north-ridge-remains-incomplete/ -- Latok 1 climbed from the North, but north ridge remains incomplete




http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/mightymouse -- Steph Abegg -- WA -- Mouse's Tooth, Coast Range, British Colombia

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https://www.facebook.com/Patagonia-Vertical-563620956987849/


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https://www.facebook.com/DavidLama.official/


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Posted: August 15, 2018, 7:42 pm
Finsteraarhorn in the Bernese Alps of Switzerland - Trip report with pictures from Seano on his blog
North Ridge of Latok 1 finally climbed after 40 years of attempts - from Alpinist.com
Denis Urubko and Maria Cardeli climb new route on Mt Ushba (Caucasus) - Russianclimb.com
English translation supplied by Russian Climb

 http://www.drdirtbag.com/2018/08/14/finsteraarhorn-14h30/-- Seano -- Finsteraarhorn - Bernese Alps - Switzerland

No automatic alt text available.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18c/newswire-latok-north-ridge-climbed -- North Ridge of Latok 1 finally climbed after 40 years of attempts




http://www.russianclimb.com/urubko_ushba.html  --  Denis Urubko and Maria Cardeli climb new route on Mt Ushba --  English translation available

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https://www.facebook.com/outsidemagazine/




https://www.outsideonline.com/2330916/mount-whitney-climbing-accidents?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Dispatch-08142018&utm_content=Dispatch-08142018+Version+A+CID_150a52554926fc732b90165f0c38c410&utm_source=campaignmonitor+outsidemagazine&utm_term=Mount+Whitney+Has+Turned+Into+an+Overcrowded+Catastrophe

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Posted: August 14, 2018, 10:08 pm
Breaking News : The North Ridge of Latok 1 is finally climbed - by Explorersweb - New pictures
Bear Creek Spire Rescue - from Inyo County Sheriff's Office - Facebook
Sas de Putia/ Peiterkofel complete crossing from Passo dell Erbe (Italy)  --  from Summitpost
Full Latok 1 North Ridge may still be unclimbed - Gripped Magazine

New Page on Personal Websites in the General Section of the Forum at Summitpost
https://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/personal-websites-t71571-780.html
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https://explorersweb.com/2018/08/13/breaking-news-north-ridge-of-latok-i-finally-climbed/      


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https://www.facebook.com/InyoCountySheriffsOffice/
Bear Creek Spire (Sierras) Rescue - from Inyo County Sheriff's Office - Facebook
Inyo County Sheriff's Office
22 hrs · 
Bear Creek Spire SAR: 
On the afternoon of August 12th a climber took a tumbling fall while descending on talus from Bear Creek Spire. Pain in his left leg, hip, and sensitivity in his spine left him unable to continue. His climbing partner left him with supplies and hiked out to the Mosquito Flat trailhead, then drove to Tom's Place in order to call 911. 
Inyo County Sheriff’s Dispatch received the call and was able to work with our SAR Coordinator to request CHP – Central Division Air Operations H-40 out of Fresno. Due to nightfall H-40 was unable to complete the hoist. Two members of Inyo SAR were inserted nearby and hiked to the subject to provide him with overnight equipment and assess his injuries. 
At first light on August 13th, H-40 flew over and Inyo SAR and CHP successfully hoisted the subject who was taken to Mammoth for medical treatment. A big “thank you” goes out to H-40 for your assistance!
*Photos courtesy of Inyo SAR

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https://www.summitpost.org/sas-de-p-tia-peitlerkofel-complete-crossing-from-passo-delle-erbe/1021559   -- Sas de Putia / Peiterkofel complets crossing from Passo dell Erbe

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https://gripped.com/news/full-latok-i-north-ridge-may-still-be-unclimbed/





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https://www.facebook.com/pages/Mount-Whitney/108117802549963


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https://www.facebook.com/qasimhgp/posts/776641379139705


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https://www.facebook.com/ChamonixFans/


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New route on Ushba

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Posted: August 14, 2018, 8:27 pm
Posted: August 13, 2018, 9:17 pm
Missing People in Yosemite National Park - Scott Tenczar - by NPS.gov Yosemite
Zangerl and Larcher send two hard Eiger Routes - from Gripped Magazine
New Grandes Jorasses North Face speed record by Dani Arnold - UKClimbing.com


https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/news/missing.htm -- Missing people in Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park is at Mono County Sheriff's Office.
16 hrs · Bridgeport, CA · 
MISSING PERSON: Scott Tenczar

If you were in the area of Robinson Creek, Crown Lake, Matterhorn Canyon, Smedberg Lake, Seavey Pass, or Peeler Lake between July 25 and August 5, 2018, even if you don't believe you have any information about the missing person, please contact the National Park Service Investigative Services Branch at 888/653-0009 or at https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/TipLine_InvestigativeServicesNPS.

Scott is a 48-year-old male with brown hair and hazel eyes, 6 ft 1 in tall, and weighing 185 pounds. He uses and wears mostly army-colored items: olive-drab green, tan, and camouflage. He also carries fishing gear. Scott is an experienced hiker and knows the area well. He was last seen at the Bridgeport Ranger Station on July 25, 2018. He planned to backpack from Robinson Creek to Crown Lake, Matterhorn Canyon, Smedberg Lake, Seavey Pass, and Peeler Lake. (This area is not near the Ferguson Fire.)

https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/news/missing.htm



https://gripped.com/profiles/zangerl-larcher-send-two-hard-eiger-routes/    --  Zangerl and Larcher send two hard Eiger Routes

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https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/08/new_grandes_jorasses_north_face_speed_record_by_dani_arnold-71672    --  New Grandes Jorasses North Face speed record by Dani Arnold




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Posted: August 13, 2018, 2:33 pm
Monte Rosa ( Piramide, Vincent, Parrotspitze, Signalkuppe, Zumsteinspitze, Dafourspitze - Trip report with picturesby Seano
Candlelight Peak - Bob Burd - Sierra Challenge - Pictures (Trip report later)
Caro North discovers new climbing in Patagonia's Minialaska - from planetmountain.com


http://www.drdirtbag.com/2018/08/11/monte-rosa-piramide-vincent-parrotspitze-signalkuppe-zumsteinspitze-dufourspitze-14h10/ -- Seano -- Monte Rosa (Piramide Vincent, Parrot spitze, Signalkuppe, Zumsteinspitze, Dafourspitze

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http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/candlelight_1.html  --  Candlelight Peak - Sierra Challenge pictures

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https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/caro-north-discovers-new-climbing-in-patagonia-minialaska.html    --  New climbing in Patagonia's Minialaska





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https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/destinations/asia/india/dangerous-motorcycle-road-himalaya-spd/?cmpid=org=ngp::mc=social::src=facebook::cmp=editorial::add=fbadv20180811travel-resurftravelvideomotoxhimalaya::rid=
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Posted: August 11, 2018, 10:05 pm
Eiger double debut for Barbara Zanger and Jacopo Larcher - from Planet Mountain.com
Diamond North and Diamond Peak - Bob Burd's Sierra Challenge - Trip report with pictures
Sinking Slip - in the Grand Canyon - Trip report with pictures from Summitpost.org
Tony Trull on Facebook - Videos and pictures of the Matterhorn and other areas of the Swiss Alps

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/eiger-double-debut-for-barbara-zangerl-and-jacopo-larcher.html -- Eiger double debut for Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher

Eiger: Barbara Zangerl climbing Deep blue sea

http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/diamond_north_1.html -- Bob Burd -- Diamond North, Diamond Peak - Sierra Challenge - Trip report with pictures

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https://www.summitpost.org/sinking-ship/1021491 -- Sinking Ship - Grand Canyon N.P.

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https://www.facebook.com/tony.trull.5   --  Videos and pictures of the Swiss Alps

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https://www.facebook.com/montagnaTv/
Recovered the body of one of the three missing mountaineers


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https://www.facebook.com/GrippedMagazine/

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https://www.facebook.com/tony.trull.5




https://www.facebook.com/americanalpinejournal/

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214338/Pumori-South-Face-Attempted-New-Route



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Posted: August 10, 2018, 9:24 pm
Grand Montets (Mont Blanc) - Three Italian mountaineers missing -  by Chamonix.net news
Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum - from Planet Mountain
K2, Broad Peak and Karakorum News by Daniel Mazur featuring the Rick Allen rescue

https://www.chamonix.net/english/news/grands-montets-three-italian-mountaineers-went-missing   -- Grandes Montets : Three Italian mountaineers missing

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https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/mathieu-maynadier-lucky-escape-after-rockfall-in-tagas-valley-karakorum.html -- Mattieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum

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https://www.summitclimb.com/news/recent/karakoram-news/   --  K2, Broad Peak and Karakorum news by Dan Mazur

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bartek bargiel summticlimb

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https://gripped.com/routes/watch-first-ascent-big-himalayan-peak-larkya-main/   --  Video - Larkya- Main


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Another successful #Eiger traverse today from the Mittelegi hut to the Jungfraujoch. Great conditions meant that even a leisurely pace gave a 3hr30 summit time.
With Matty Callister, Justin Gale, and Tamsin Gay
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Posted: August 10, 2018, 12:02 am
Another successful rescue : Mathieu Maynadier injured in the Tagas Valley of Pakistan - Nepal Mtn
These four women defied expectations and explored the world - from National Geographic
North Gunsight Peak - West Face - N Cascades (Washington) - Trip report w/ pictures - Steph Abegg

https://www.nepalmountainnews.com/another-successful-rescue-mathieu-maynadier-injured-in-tagas-valley-pakistan/ -- Another successful rescue : Mathieu Maynadier injured in Tagas Valley, Pakistan.




https://www.nationalgeographic.com/culture-exploration/2018/07/historic-women-adventurers-defy-gender-stereotypes-culture/?cmpid=org=ngp::mc=social::src=facebook::cmp=editorial::add=fbadv20180808culture-resurfculturewomenadventurersdefystereotype::rid=&sf195113382=1 -- These four women defied expectations and explored the world     
     


http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/washington/northcascades/ngunsight  --  Steph Abegg  --  North Gunsight Peak - West Face - N Cascades - Washington

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http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Dancing-with-the-Devil/t13335n.html

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https://www.facebook.com/mikhail.fomin11

"not all at once" - somehow so can characterize our second season of communication with the mountains of Pakistan. The Plan-minimum fulfilled alas only i - went on the classics to the top of the broad peak (8047 M), Вячеслав Poležajko (Viacheslav Polezhaiko) did not succeed in weather and health - he wrote about it in his post.
Bad even by the standards of Pakistan the weather of this season ate all the reserves of time and did not give to the plan-maximum - the new line at broad peak.
The Classic at 8 k is definitely not some special result for an athlete, however, as the main thing in trips is to receive pleasure and new experience, the expedition by unanimous decision of the personal composition is decided to be successful, because we:
(a) once again understood the simple truth that the most precious thing in the mountains is people, and met with a mass of interesting lazaûŝego people with whom God give still somewhere to meet under the big mountains,
B) involved in the happy rescue of the legendary Rick Allen after he printed out the broad this season and on the downhill from the top flew down the hill above the third camp of meters on 300-500 (off the scratches and was discovered and saved with a drone - a separate story! ),
The in) felt how our bodies work at 8000 M, and realized what and how we can do there,
G) try a month with a view of the South Wall K2 and allowed to that in our heads dreams of the future 
(D) tested a huge number of new and existing clothing models Fram Equipment (friends, special thanks for the sverhlegkie overboty - in summit day I was the only one who didn't otmahival the legs than caused the waves of envy of foreign colleagues ), and ate an incredible amount of And loaves om nom (one of the loaves even had to use instead of the flag at the top ), and share with both companies their impressions of it,
E) well and most importantly - whole and healthy are back home, and already, as the classic sings, "build plans ahead" !
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Another successful #Eiger traverse today from the Mittelegi hut to the Jungfraujoch. Great conditions meant that even a leisurely pace gave a 3hr30 summit time


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Posted: August 9, 2018, 3:18 pm
Dent Blanche Accident (Alps) - 1 Fatality, 2 injured - by policevalais.ch and Montagna.tv
Knapsack Pass Peak and Peak 12,112 feet in the Sierras - Sierra Challenge pictures by Bob Burd
Sergi Mingote - For 10 minutes I had K2 all to my self - Said Spanish climber (No supplemental O's)

https://www.policevalais.ch/communiques-pour-les-medias/dent-blanche-evolene-1-alpiniste-perd-la-vie/  -- Dent Blanche accident - 1 Fatality
https://www.montagna.tv/cms/128506/precipita-per-300-metri-sulla-dent-blanche-muore-alpinista/
On 06.08.2018 around 17:00, a mountain accident occurred at the Dent Blanche. A mountaineer lost his life.
Three mountaineers, two Dutchmen and a German descended from the summit of Dent Blanche (4357m) towards the hut of the same name. Shortly after passing the Great Gendarme, at an altitude of about 4000 meters, one of them slipped for an undetermined reason and fell about 300 meters in the face. The alert was given by his two companions. Subsequently, they, unable to continue, were helicoptered and evacuated by the rescuers.
A doctor and two guides of the House of the Rescue were quickly rushed on the spot aboard a helicopter of Air-Glaciers. They could only note the death of the unfortunate.
The victim is a 60-year-old Dutch national.




http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/knapsack_pass_1.html  -- Bob Burd's Sierra Challenge -- Knapsack Pass Peak, Peak 12,112 feet in the Sierra Navada






https://explorersweb.com/2018/08/07/terry-harch-one-week-without-food-or-water/ -- Tony Harch : One week without food or water on Mt Aspiring in New Zealand

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https://explorersweb.com/2018/08/04/for-10-minutes-i-had-the-k2-peak-to-myself/   --  Spanish climber Sergi Mingote - For 10 minutes I had K2 all to myself (no supplemental oxygen)



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Posted: August 7, 2018, 10:54 pm
Monte Cevedale, Suldenspitze in the Eastern Alps - Trip report with pictures from Seano on his blog
McGee Pass Peak, Peak 12,418 ft - Sierra Challenge Day 2 pictures from Bob Burd on his blog
Olivier Bonnet, director of Simond Company dies on Dent du Geant from rockfall (Mont Blanc Mas )
Search for plane that crashed near Denali suspended overnight ; status of people aboard unknown

http://www.drdirtbag.com/2018/08/05/monte-cevedale-suldenspitze/   -- Seano -- Monte Cevedale, Suldenspitze - Eastern Alps




http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/mcgee_pass_1.html -- Bob Burd - Sierra Challenge - McGee Pass Peak, Peak 12, 418 (Pictures for now)




https://www.chamonix.net/english/news/olivier-bonnet-director-simond-company-died -- Olivier Bonnet, director of Simond company dies on Dent du Geant from rockfall




https://www.adn.com/alaska-news/2018/08/05/flightseeing-plane-crashes-in-denali-national-park-saturday-with-5-aboard-search-underway/   --  Search for plane that crashed near Denali suspended overnight ; status of people aboard unknown

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Posted: August 7, 2018, 3:45 pm
Ortler (Hintergrat) in the Tirol - Trip report with pictures by Seano on his blog (Dr Dirtbag)
Suicide Ridge, Slide Mtn (11,084 ft) , The Juggernaut (California) pre Sierra Challenge - pictures
Summer 2018 : K2, K7 and the Karakorum - from Mountain Planet.com in Australia
San Joaquin Mtn, Peak 10,242, Two Teats, Carson Peak - Sierra Challenge  - Bob Burd pictures

http://www.drdirtbag.com/2018/08/04/ortler-hintergrat/ -- Seano -- Ortler (Hintergrat) - Tirol






http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_photos/suicide_ridge_1/index_t.html  -- Suicide Ridge, Slide Mountain 11,084 ft, The Juggernaut (California) - Pre Sierra Challenge hike

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https://mountainplanet.com/blog/summer-2018:-k2-and-the-karakoram-5310  --  Summer 2018 : K2  ,K7 and the Karakorum

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http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/san_joaquin_n1_2.html    --  San Joaquin Mtn, Peak 10,242, Two Teats, Carson Peak  --  Sierra Challenge Day1

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Posted: August 5, 2018, 3:35 pm
Australian climber rescued after a week on a frozen mountain in New Zealand - Mount Aspiring
Piolets d' Or 2018 in Poland - Four climbs and one person to be recognised - Alpinist Magazine
Karakorum 2018 : Season Recap - from Explorersweb.com on their blog


https://edition.cnn.com/2018/08/03/australia/australian-climber-new-zealand-mountain-intl/index.html?utm_source=fbCNN&utm_content=2018-08-03T10%3A37%3A57&utm_medium=social&utm_term=link -- Australian climber is rescued after a week on a frozen mountain in New Zealand - Mount Aspiring




http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18c/newswire-2018-piolets-dor-preview -- Four climbs and one person to be recognised at Piolets d' Or in Poland




https://explorersweb.com/2018/08/03/karakorum-2018-season-recap/   -- Karakorum 2018 : Season Recap






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An Idaho mom carried an injured 55-pound dog six hours down a mountain. Now she has a new friend for life.  Hiker adopts injured dog she carried down 11,000-foot mountain
http://www.foxnews.com/great-outdoors/2018/08/01/hiker-adopts-injured-dog-carried-down-11000-foot-mountain.html
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Posted: August 3, 2018, 8:51 pm
Domes de Miage (Alps) - Three climbers lose their lives - from Planetchamonix.com
Six avalanches reported in the Mont Blanc Massif - Two deaths - Planetchamonix.com
Flying Penguin in Canada's Bugaboos goes free - by Gripped and Planet Mountain
Breiflogtinden East Face first ascent in Norway's Lofoton Islanda - Planet Mountain

https://www.planetchamonix.com/domes-de-miage-3-climbers-lose-their-lives/ -- Domes de Miage (Mont Blanc) - 3 climbers lose their lives
Three Mont Blanc climbers die after taking a more difficult route due to Government closure of normal routes to keep climbers safe



https://www.planetchamonix.com/several-avalanches-resulting-two-deaths/ -- Six avalanches reported in the Mont Blanc Massif resulting in two deaths




https://gripped.com/news/flying-penguin-in-bugaboos-goes-free-at-5-12d/  -- Flying Penguin in Canada's Bugaboos goes free
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/martin-and-florian-riegler-liberate-the-flying-penguin-in-canadas-bugaboos.html

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https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/breiflogtinden-east-face-first-ascent-on-norway-lofoten-islands.html -- Breiflogtinden East Face first ascent in Norway's Lofoton Islan


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A few hours ago, for the first time ever, internet arrived to the North Inylchek basecamp. So, here’s a photo from a few days ago of @nikitoz.balabanov acclimatizing on Khan Tengri’s standard route from the north side. @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @scarpaspa
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Mt Ushba - www.summitpost.org       


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https://explorersweb.com/2018/08/03/karakorum-2018-season-recap/    --  Karakorum 2018 - Season Recap


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Posted: August 3, 2018, 4:46 pm
Tragedy on the slopes of Lenin summit, two climbers are dead - from sportowefakty.wp.pl
Summit attempts on Gasherbrum 4 abandoned - from Stefan Nestler on his blog
Piolets d' Or 2018 - Gasherbrum 1, Shispare, Nilkanth win - from Planet Mountain
Three Mountain Climbers perish on Mont Blanc - US News.co and Montagna.tv

https://sportowefakty.wp.pl/alpinizm/769080/tragedia-na-zboczach-szczytu-lenina-dwoje-alpinistow-nie-zyje -- Tragedy on the slopes of Lenin Summit. Two clinbers are dead.
The death of Semen Dvornichenko and Natalia Chionova on Lenin peak is now confirmed... July 28 they started from C3 to C2 in 4 am, heavy fog, 300 meters before right place began to go down, tore the cornice, ice-snow collapse... Natalia's body is found.





https://blogs.dw.com/adventuresports/summit-attempts-on-gasherbrum-iv-abandoned/ -- Stefan Nestler -- Summit attempts on Gasherbrum 4 abandoned


See the source image


https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/piolets-dor-2018-gasherbrum-1-shispare-nilkanth-win-nilkanth-alex-honnold-receive-special-mention.html    -- Piolets d" Or 2018 - Gasherbrum 1, Shispare, Nilkanth win

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https://www.usnews.com/news/world/articles/2018-08-02/3-mountain-climbers-plunge-to-their-deaths-in-french-alps   --  3 mountain climbers perish on Mont Blanc
https://www.montagna.tv/cms/128142/monte-bianco-ancora-morti-tre-alpinisti-perdono-la-vita-sui-domes-de-miage/


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https://www.montagna.tv/cms/128127/monte-rosa-alpinista-precipita-da-punta-dufour-e-muore/--  Three more accidents on Monte Rosa

monte rosa, punta doufur, cronaca nera, indigente montagna

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A bad start to the day today when black clouds and thunder rolled in around 7:15. We managed to sprint the short distance to the Rifugio Gnifetti where we waited until 10 when the weather improved and we were able to make a quick ascent of the Pyramid Vincent 4213m. The storm has returned now and we are all relaxing in the Gnifetti again.
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Vlad Capusan from Romania has been fortunate to climb all over the world, including half a dozen expeditions to the Himalaya, resulting in a solo ascent of Kusum Kanguru and, in 2016, the first ascent of a lovely peak in the Makalu-Barun region. That same year he completed a long new route on the rarely climbed north side of Bugaboo Spire in Canada. A five-day attempt last spring on a new route on Pumori (7,148m), with Zsolt Torok, is covered in AAJ 2018. The two men made it about 900 meters up a very steep, unclimbed wall on the left side of Pumori’s south face before avalanches sent them down. He plans to return.
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Posted: August 2, 2018, 8:20 pm
Alexander Gukov rescued from 6200 meters on Latok 1 by a helicopter longline operation - Alpinist.
Bear's Tooth in Montana - Trip report with pictures from Summitpost.org
Cima Grande di Lavadede, Reiner Kauschke at 80 years reclimbs his superdirectissima - Planet Mtn
The major European Alpine Peaks exceeding 4000 meters in height - by Alan Ingram

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18c/newswire-alexander-gukov-rescued-from-latok -- Alexander Gukov rescued from 6200 meters on Latok 1 by a helicopter longline operation




https://www.summitpost.org/bears-tooth-july-2018/1021168 -- Bear's Tooth - Montana




https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/cima-grande-di-lavaredo-reiner-kauschke-at-80-reclimbs-his-superdirectissima.html-- Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Reiner Kauschke at 80 reclimbs his superdirectissima

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http://www.caingram.com/Alps_4000.htm  --  The major 4000 meter alpine peaks - Alan Ingram

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Posted: August 1, 2018, 8:57 pm
Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok 1 - by Planet Mountain, Stefan Nestler blog and; Explorersweb.
Piz Bernina (Swiss and Italian Alps) - Trip report with pictures by Seano on his blog (Dr Dirtbag)
Epic rescue on Latok 1 saves stranded climber - from Gripped.com

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/alexander-gukov-rescued-on-latok-1.html -- Alexander Gukov rescued on Latok 1
https://blogs.dw.com/adventuresports/alexander-gukov-rescued-from-latok-i/ -- Stefan Nestler
https://explorersweb.com/2018/07/31/breaking-news-gukov-rescued-from-latok-i/






http://www.drdirtbag.com/2018/07/30/piz-bernini/   -- Seano -- Piz Bernina (Alps)



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https://gripped.com/news/epic-rescue-latok-saves-stranded-climber/  --  Epic rescue on Latok 1 saves stranded climber

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Vitya Koval: Sanya says he was on the verge, hallucinating.
On the third day used without food.
Zabrosku mine he btw found 
Avalanches and day and night. Thought they wouldn't save.
Helicopters on the obletah heard, but understood that in the clouds it will not be seen or fly.
The legs were frozen because the last two days didn't have the strength to dig, his legs were snowed in, he was lying.
He wouldn't be able to pull up until tomorrow.
Would freeze.
He threw a bag down this morning because he was soaked and frozen through, not warmed, but vice versa.
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Thank you for saving lives lives of climbers
The team saved lives of more than 5 climbers ( less than 6 months time period)
On K-2, Nanga Parbat, Two times on Latok, and on Ulter peak in the Karakorum mountain ranges
Army aviation pilots made all this possible 
Only climbers can understand the harshness of Karakorum mountains and its weather conditions 
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Posted: July 31, 2018, 9:06 pm
K2 2018 Summer Coverage : Season Summary - by Alan Arnette on his detailed blog of Karakorum
Still no rescue of Gukov possible - by Stefan Nestler on his blog - latest update
Dallas Peak in Colorado - by Bob Burd - Pictures or slide show - Trip report to come
Onion Valley Trailhead to Kearsage Pass and Bullfrog Lake - Meetup Adventures Unlimited

http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2018/07/29/k2-2018-summer-coverage-season-summary/ -- Alan Arnette -- K2 2018 Summer Coverage : Season Summary



https://blogs.dw.com/adventuresports/still-no-rescue-of-gukov-possible/ -- Stefan Nestler -- Still no rescue of Gukov possible




http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_photos/dallas_n01_2/index_t.html -- Bob Burd -- Dallas Peak - Colorado - Pictures (Trip report to follow)

http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/dallas_n01_2.html




https://www.meetup.com/Adventurers-Unlimited/photos/29114056/  --  Onion Valley Trailhead to Kearsage Pass and Bullfrog Lake (Sierras)

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Jirishanca west side
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Posted: July 30, 2018, 9:36 pm
Mont BlancMassif - Two climbers died - from Chamonix.net News
Film Review : The Legend of Fred Beckey - from Explorersweb.com
Arrow Peak 12,959 ft in the Sierras - Pictures by Calico Kat on Smugmug

https://www.chamonix.net/english/news/mont-blanc-massif-two-men-died -- Mont Blanc Massif : Two men died




https://explorersweb.com/2018/07/30/film-review-dirtbag-the-legend-of-fred-beckey/ -- Film Review : The Legend of Fred Beckey





https://calicokat.smugmug.com/Hiking/Sierra-Nevada/2018/Arrow-Peak-12959-July-2018/i-843nL2d  - Arrow Peak 12,959 ft in the Sierras (Pictures)





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#Latok I first connection with pilots and basic camp at 2:30 Moscow (4:30 by pakist).

Vitya Koval (don't know what we would do without him) transmits the weather: while everything is closed, fog. Trying in an hour, at 5:30 am.

3:30 am. Moscow pl. Vitya: the clouds are rising, stretches, but the mountain is now closed. Trying in an hour at 6:30 am

4:30 am no change

5:30 brain pl. Cloudy 5300-5500. Day Groundhog some

So I have time to write a report on yesterday's day.
There was no weather, at all. The helicopters have been flying twice and both times to the height where sanya gooks is located, could not climb. Total lack of visibility. But Sasha heard them. And he understands that we haven't abandoned him, we believe in him, we're with him. You just have to hold on a little bit more. The other connection we don't have.

After correspondence with the slovene, alešem česenom and luca stražičem at base camp, David Getler, hervé barmasse and andrei bargelʹ concluded that the only possible option to remove sanja is longlajn, so plan b - with zabroskoj participants above it - out, But there's a new one.

Arseni Boldyrev and denis failures bought tickets and tonight are flying out of sheremetyevo to Islamabad. Arseniy is a high-quality pilot with a huge experience of participating in rescue operations of this kind. Denis can work with longlajnom. We understand what's going on for a long time, but if we can make a zabrosku in which there will be food, gas and satellite phone, sanya will wait for them. It doesn't mean Pakistanis stop trying, no. These are experienced pilots, the best in their case in Pakistan. It is they who recently filmed with ultar Sarah Bruce Normand. But we decided to podstelitʹ the cornhusk.

Plan for today: waiting for the weather. Fly. Trying to take off the longlajnom, if it doesn't work out, make a zabrosku.

FP friends, thank you for your support when your hands are lowered, reading your comments, and yes, we will succeed.

Ppp completely forgot, yesterday was the day of the navy, and sanya same we have - sailor, xo, let the weather fail us, but he must definitely see the sea!

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Posted: July 30, 2018, 4:48 pm
Latok 1 updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission - from Planetmountain.com
Karly Tau Peak 5450 meters in Kazakhstan - July - August 2018 by Kan Tengri Expeditions
Italy - Lavaredo - Cima Piccola in the Dolomites - Trip report with pictures
Herve Barmasse on Facebook commenting on Gukov's rescue prospects

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/latok-1-updates-concerning-alexander-gukov-rescue-mission.html-- Latok 1 updates concerning Alexander Gukov rescue mission




http://www.kantengri.kz/mt_prog_04d.htm -- Karly Tau Peak 5450 meters in Kazakhstan July - Aug 2018 - by Kan Tengri Expeditions




http://becauseflatsucks.blogspot.com/2018/07/italy-lavaredo-cima-piccola-perlen-vor.html  --  Italy - Lavaredo - Cima Piccola - Dolomites

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IN THE LAST 5 days we have always been available for help to alexandr gukov. Every day we have heard by phone both pilots and the Russian Embassy and we have waited in vain for a helicopter that for unfavourable weather conditions has never been able to prelevarci from the base camp of gasherbrum, to lead us to that of latok. It's snowing tonight too. At first we were the only mountaineers immediately ready and available, but from today five really strong climbers, including Alex Cesen, have arrived at the base camp of of. We heard them and they also exclude the recovery of gukov climbing the way down to reach the Russian Mountaineer. Only solution remains the long line, the barycentric. But time to save alexandr is little and goes too fast though for all of us waiting for a happy ending seems to be slow and infinite. The wait is unnerving. Hard. And even though we now know for sure, and I would add rightly, that the military will be they to mountaineers at the base camp of latok and no longer to us for help, our thoughts and prayers are for you gukov. Hold on!

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https://www.labrujulaverde.com/2016/07/honopu-el-valle-hawaiano-de-la-tribu-perdida


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The last few days have been intense, and tense. Many of you will know that Alexander Gukov has been stranded high on Latok awaiting help after the fatal fall of his climbing partner. Herve and I were asked to help in the rescue and have been packed and ready to go since then. Today we learnt that there are five other climbers already at Latok, ready to help in the rescue. They include some of the best Himalayan climbers of our time; so on knowing this @hervebarmasse and I are standing down and preparing to focus on climbing G4.
Like anyone who has been watching this drama unfold, we hope for everyone involved to stay safe and get Alexander back to safety too.

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Posted: July 29, 2018, 10:18 pm
Fear for Alexander Gukov on Latok 1 - from Stefan Nestler on his blog
Weissmies in the Swiss Alps - Trip report with pictures from Seano (Dt Dirtbag) on his blog
Sangeetha's Seven Summits Quest (now age 10 ) and her other climbs
Khan Tengri photo from Russian climb

https://blogs.dw.com/adventuresports/fear-for-alexander-gukov-on-latok-i/ -- Stefan Nestler -- Fear for Alexander Gukov on Latok 1



http://www.drdirtbag.com/2018/07/29/weissmies/ -- Seano -- Weissmies (Alps)




http://www.sangeetasbahl.com/mountains/  --  Sangeeta's Seven Summits Quest (10 years old)

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Congratulation to Sangeetha for making the summit of Mount Elbrus (5642 meters), the highest peak in Europe Continent at aged 10 years, 11 month and 23 days. This is her 2nd Seven Summit Success after Mount Kilimanjaro success, 11 months ago. Hope the achievement will inspire her to do better and take up more challenges in the future
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Posted: July 29, 2018, 8:30 pm
Lenzspitze, Nadelhorn in the Swiss Alps - Trip report with pictures from Seano (Dr Dirtbag)
Russian climber Alexander Gukov in peril on Latok 1, Rescue in progress - Rock and Ice
Latok 1 Update from Desnivel Facebook translated from Spanish


http://www.drdirtbag.com/2018/07/28/lenzspitze-nadelhorn/ -- Seano -- Lenzspitze, Nadelhorn - Swiss Alps




https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/russian-climber-alexander-gukov-peril-latok-rescue-operation/





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http://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/el-mal-tiempo-pausa-el-rescate-de-alexander-gukov-en-el-latok-i      

Updated Saturday 28 May at 17,30

The world of mountaineering is awaiting the rescue of the Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov at Latok 1 . The bad weather has prevented so far that the helicopters can fly from Skardu. The plan of the rescue team is to take advantage of the first window of good weather so that they fly to the base camp, because once there it will be easier to fly in the next window of good weather , however small it may be, and try to rescue .
For this they need, in addition to very good weather that there is no wind,because the rescue plan is to bring the helicopter to the wall with a rope hanging (rescue technique known as Long Line ) that Alexander will have to catch and tie up for so you can be rescued .
It seems that this is the only possibility of rescuing him since he is at a high and complicated point in Latok 1, where it is difficult and dangerous to deposit a rescue group. This rescue plan is complicated and risky for both pilots and Alexander. The rescue team also considers, if the conditions do not allow for the moment the rescue operation in Long Line, to make it arrive provisions (food, gas and a satellite phone).
The good news is that Alexander (who on the other hand is running out of battery from the team through which he can communicate) has been able to set up the store on a small platform .


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Latok I. It's been another day. Sasha Gooks is still one at the height of 6200 m on latoke. The weather was gone yesterday. Helicopters all day stood at the starting position, the rescuers were waiting for the go, but not rained.

From the food, the sleigh has a half of the snickers. He's got gas. Less than 1 % of the battery charge on Rockstar (the device through which the link is maintained with it).

In order to take it off the wall, you need a perfectly clean sky and a lack of wind.
Then the helicopter will be able to fly as close as possible and drop the longlajn that Sasha will have to catch, buckle up and fly to base camp.
It's a mega-difficult task for everyone, for the pilots and for him himself.

Sanya is on the mountain for 20 days, from the moment of the break, it's been 18 days when they and Sergei Glazunovym have been putting heavy things in a high-Height Camp at 5512 M, taking a stock of products

Three days, after the death of serëži, Sasha is trapped in a snow cocoon, so he calls his parking lot. He managed to pave the tent on a tiny shelf.
Here he is waiting for help.

The weather is promised tomorrow, but if there is at least a small window today, try to throw it away (food, gas, satellite phone).

4:30 am (2:30 in Moscow): Mount a, visibility no. Next weather check at base camp and connection with pilots at 5:30 (3:30 am on Moscow). The result is the same.

Plan for today: at the slightest clarification, helicopters fly to base camp and make zabrosku. The Pilots will try to fly as close as possible.

If there's a window, the body body will be lifted today.

Improving the weather tomorrow. Helicopters will arrive with some fuel supply and stay on the base to not miss even a tiny window.

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Posted: July 28, 2018, 9:55 pm
Drama on the 7000er Latok 1 in Pakistan - from Stephan Nestler and PlanetMountain.com
Ghukov trapped on Latok 1 after the death of his partner - by Explorersweb.com
Mt Evans : the Black Wall (Colorado) - Trip report with pictures by Steph Abegg
The Palm Springs Aerial Tramway is evacuated due to the Cranston Fire




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#LatokI
Update: Attempt to rescue Russian mountaineer 
One of the best Russian alpinists, Alexander Gukov , has stuck at about 6200 meters on Latok I (7,145m) after the death of his climbing companion Sergey Glazunov.
The rescue team is waiting for weather improvement, they will try a long line rescue, in a very dangerous position.
Gukov and Glazunov traveled to Pakistan with the aim of completing the north ridge of Latok I, first attempted during 26 days in 1978 by the Americans.
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Latok I. Waiting for amelioration.
The helicopters cannot move due to bad weather. They are on standby position and as soon as the weather clears they shall operate as planned.


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Posted: July 27, 2018, 8:17 pm
Animas Forks Mountain - Peak 13,708 feet in Colorado - Trip report with pictures by Bob Burd'
2018 Sierra Challenge - Sierra Nevada in California - August 3 - 12 by Bob Burd (Annual Challenge)
Latok 1 Rescue Plans - from Russian Climb on Twitter
A fatal accident on the Matterhorn, a Polish mountaineer died - from Montagna.tv

http://www.snwburd.com/bob/trip_reports/animas_forks_1.html -- Bob Burd -- Animas Forks Mountain - Peak 13,708 ft - Colorado
http://snwburd.com/bob/challenge/2018/  -- Bob Burd -- 2018 Sierra Challenge - August 3 - 12 in the Sierra Nevada (California)



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https://twitter.com/russianclimb/status/1022471818043711496?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5Eserp%7Ctwgr%5Etweet
Latok I. The weather is bad yet, abd 2 next days too. Adam Bielecki and David Gottlieb are ready to take part in rescue, to try to reach Alexander.




https://www.montagna.tv/cms/127727/incidente-fatale-sul-cervino-morto-un-alpinista-polacco/ -- Fatal accident on the Matterhorn, a Polish mountaineer died

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The event occurred in the late afternoon today, just before 7 pm, when a Polish mountaineer crashed over 50 meters over the Matterhorn. The accident occurred at an altitude of 2,900 meters and the man died as a result of the fall. A helicopter of the Valdostano Alpine Rescue has intervened to recover the body in the area of the Oriondé refuge . For now, the victim's personal details are not known.
The alarm for the incident was launched by the climbing partner. The body, recovered, has already been transported to Cervinia,  available to the Mountain Rescue Service of the Guardia di Finanza. The dynamics of the accident will be reconstructed and the identification of man will proceed.

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Eating dinner at the Hornli Hutte. The sky is clearing as forecast and we are all set for the chaos to commence at 4am. #Matterhorn 
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Posted: July 27, 2018, 2:32 pm
Latok 1 : Sergey Glazunov perishes. Alexander Ghukov trapped at 6200 meters - Plant Mountain.com
SumaBrakk and K7 Expedition for Huber and Buhl - from Explorersweb.com -
Tasch-Dom Traverse (Alps) - Trip report with pictures from Seano (Dr Dirtbag)
6 Days at Eldorado Canyon Colorado and 1 day at Boulder Canyon - by Steph Abegg on her blog

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/latok-i-sergey-glazunov-perishes-alexander-gukov-trapped-at-6200-meters.html--Latok 1 : SergeyGlazunovperishes. AlexanderGhukovtrappedat6200 meters






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Latok I. According to GPS signal received yesterday at 12:40pm Alexander Gukov and Sergey Glazunov were at 6975m. This is their second attempt to complete Kenne...
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Latok I. According to GPS signal received yesterday at 12:40pm Alexander Gukov and Sergey Glazunov were at 6975m. This is their second attempt to complete Kennedy-Lowe III-Lowe-Donini North Ridge route. 
the most probably a battery died then and till now we don't have any connections with guys. it's snowing up there so another Russian team who descended to BC three days ago could not see them. 
keep fingers crossed.


Yesterday and today guys without contact. Most likely sat accum. There's still a phone, but it's in the upper � Camp and also probably dead.
At Night, I wake up to see if there's any news.
Yesterday at 12:40 noon sanya with serëgoj were at 6975 M. Predveršinnyj Comb starts somewhere at 7050 M.
Top 7145 M.
If they went out yesterday and started the descent, then to the top camp, at 6780 M, where there is food � and tent � / cave, must come down.
The weather is bad It's raining down there, it's snowing.
From The Base Camp, they are not visible. Vitya Koval promised, if today turns, go under the gantry wall, see them in binoculars.
Come on, guys, we're waiting for you here.

Upd Vitya Koval: see the tent at 6700, the tent has one person.
The helicopter flew out, will be in place at 8:30 Moscow. Vitya Koval on board.
Prepared a drop of food and gas, try to drop.

Upd Vitya Koval: " made flying walls on a military helicopter. Guys slowly but dûlʹferâût in the area 6700. Dropped them food and gas
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https://explorersweb.com/2018/07/26/suma-brakk-k7-expedition-for-huber-buhl/  -- Suma Brakk and K7 expedition for Huber and Buhl



http://www.drdirtbag.com/2018/07/26/tasch-dom-traverse/ -- Seano -- Tasch-Dom traverse (Alps)




http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/colorado/eldoradocanyon -- Steph Abegg -- 6 days at Eldorado Canyon and 1 day at Boulder Canyon

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Posted: July 26, 2018, 8:30 pm

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